Saigon photo essay

Xoi ga (sticky rice with chicken)

The reason I'm back in this damn country.

Diggin' in.

Hammer-Sickle-Star

Saigon sunset

Shipped back to ‘Nam (Second tour)

Rainy Saigon

Post-rain Saigon

Stepping into the Seoul airport in Korea it was immediately obvious I wasn’t in the U.S. anymore, although the Caribou Coffee did slip me up for a second. The airport had free wireless everywhere. Why are we so far behind on this? Oh wait, all the big companies realized it’s just another way to make money.
When I went to check-in at the Minneapolis-St. Paul airport at 5:15 a.m., things did not begin well. I didn’t bring any paper documentation to the airport of my flight so they told me my bag could be checked only as far as L.A. I tried to get into my email to show my itinerary but all of the network connections required a password or some paid membership. So the entire flight to L.A. I was anxious because I couldn’t remember the time of my flight to Korea. I was worried that with having to pick up my bag and re-check I might miss my flight….
Of course I ended up with plenty of time and things worked out. Korean Airlines hooked me up with an exit row because they told me it looked as if I needed extra leg room. Right on! Comparing international airlines with our shabby domestic carriers is like Guinness vs. Bud Light. Customer service still exists on international carriers and it is usually provided by young, attractive flight attendants in tight skirts who wear nice matching scarves and cute bows in their hair. Each seat comes with a screen and remote allowing you to pass the time watching television shows, movies or playing games. The selection is even respectable. I watched some classics like “Giant” starring Elizabeth Taylor, Rock Hudson, Dennis Hopper and James Dean. Excellent film I’ve wanted to see for a long time. Got to see “The Sting” as well. Then the guy next to me stole MY pillow. The utter Asian obliviousness had already started. I was too embarrassed for his sake to say anything at the time and waited until the end of the flight when he just set my pillow down. Damn saving face.

Mini bananas!

Somehow got hooked up with business class for my final flight. This wouldn’t be of much note but the seats actually reclined completely into beds. I slept the entire five hours into Ho Chi Minh. Twenty-eight hours of travel later, I’d at last reached Vietnam. I knew I’d made it because people instantly started bumping into me and invading my personal space. Waiting for my baggage, I’d initially been at the front of the conveyor belt. By the time my backpack finally arrived (unstrapped and looking as if it’d been rummaged through), I had to push my way past a handful of Vietnamese men.
I looked for Abigail as I stepped into the throngs of Asians onto what felt like the red carpet, reminding me of my initial arrival on Feb. 5, 2009. The air was as suffocating as the rainforest of Borneo. I’d truly forgot just how humid Vietnam was. Right as I was about to get my phone out to call Abigail she appeared from no where and 99 days after we parted, we were reunited at last. I’d never imagined I’d be returning to Vietnam on my own volition, but I couldn’t have been happier being back. No more “I miss you” emails or Skype dates. The moment I’d been playing in my mind for months finally happened and just like all those other anticipatory moments you dream about, it’s never quite as you replay over and over in your mind, but that’s not at all saying it wasn’t absolutely wonderful. I even slept a bit that first night.

Oh, why hello!

Less than 12 hours after my arrival, I climbed into my role for the next 10 days until I begin teaching again: Abigail’s chauffeur. After a shaky first minute of driving, it all came back to me. I was passing people on the wrong side of the street and honking my horn just like the rest of the crazy drivers within a few minutes.
Jet lag is deceiving. When you think you’ve beat it, you’ve probably still got a ways to go. I’m still settling into a normal schedule, but haven’t been able to avoid afternoon, early evening naps. I’ve at least had enough energy and masochism to jog at 11:30 a.m. Seven of us H2Hers have just returned from an approximate 80-kilometer (50 miles) ride in ever-scenic Ho Chi Minh City (I’ve done the route probably 50 times and it sucks as much as the first time. Not boasting, just telling it how it is.). And as always the ride brought about unexpected adventures. There was cramping, some miscommunication, two flat tires, lots of ice tea and at least one rider getting stuck in the monsoon. It was also about 95 degrees.
Thus far I’ve been able to appreciate good ‘ol Ho Chi Minh after my much needed break from the city. Its chaos is a lot of things and stimulating is certainly one adjective to describe. Everyday brings some excitement. It’s been good reuniting with friends and getting psyched up for November’s ride. I need a lot of help fundraising (www.h2hcharityride.org) and a big thank you to the few of you who have donated. It means so much to me — and all of the Vietnamese people who need the help.

Today's group of riders.

There’s an endless supply of reminders that I’m back in ‘Nam. I mentioned the invasion of personal space. Here’s a few more that have stuck out as prominently as a footlong mole hair (or a grown out pinkie fingernail).
-The stares, waves and smiles you get.
-The freaking humidity.
-Roosters crowing at 3:30 every morning (Thank God for earplugs. Damn cocks.).
-The rotten egg, nuclear waste, rancid Port-a-potty stench of the rivers. It’s beyond horrible.
-All of the pungent smells for that matter. The fish, the exhaust, everything.
-As always, the traffic. Its insanity never ceases to amaze.
-Here’s a late addition (it just happened to me this morning): When trying to buy bananas, you give the vendor VND50,000 (about $2.50) but they can’t make change because the bill is too large. No sale.

Preparing for another month of life in spandex.

September (closing time on summer and my U.S.A. time)

Wisconsin farm

Summer left just over a week over and autumn has blown in. Days are shorter and chillier. It’s always a beautiful time of year with the colors changing — especially beautiful knowing I’ll be out of here in just a couple days before it really starts getting cold. Just four more nights including tonight. WOW! I couldn’t have asked for a better summer back in the States. I needed a quiet final week back at the cabin to relax with the family and mentally prepare for Vietnam’s energy and chaos…
These pictures certainly aren’t going to do much to convince my girlfriend I’m anything other than a “farm boy” from “Sconnie.” According to these pics, all we do in shred cabbage to make sauerkraut out in the country. But seriously, it’s a Liedl family tradition to make sauerkraut every year. My grandpa spoke German growing up and his family made it. It’s always been one of our favorites whether in a Rueben sandwich or with dumplings and pork. This year we shredded 50 pounds. Mom then added salt and packed it down. Now it sits and ferments for two weeks. Then we get to eat delicious Rueben sandwiches and dumplings and pork with sauerkraut the rest of the year. Well, I would if I lived in the States. It’s one of the few foods I really crave living abroad.

Out in the country, part i

Out in the country, part ii

Out in the country, part iii

Sunset over railroad

One more summer sunset.

Adam shredding cabbage.

Shredding some of the 50 pounds.

Mr. and Mrs. Jandro

Mr. and Mrs. Christopher Jandro

By the time my friends’ wedding day finally came around, it felt like it was as much my big day, as theirs. Just after my return home from Vietnam, they’d asked me to be the officiant in their wedding. I was to marry one of my best friends, Chris Jandro, and my best friend’s sister and once babysitter, Lauren Peterson. I’m not sure who was feeling more pressure come Sept. 10.

Earlier in the summer, Chris Jandro and I had researched ministerial possibilities for me. We first called up Hennepin County, who condescendingly, somewhat disbelievingly responded, “So what you’re saying is you want to be able to marry someone for one day?” Rather than being an officiant for a single ceremony on a specific day, it was time to pursue other avenues or lurk down other dark alleys, whatever metaphor you choose.

We happened upon Universal Ministries. After about ten minutes, a few clicks of the mouse and entry of some standard personal data, I was well on my way to becoming an ordained minister. No joke. I then had the choice of purchasing a “standard” certificate for $10 or “fancy” one for $20. Of course I went fancy.

As Sept. 10 loomed closer, I began feeling the pressure (mostly because I hadn’t yet taken the time to write my speech, or rather “homily.”) As “officiant” and “minister” of the wedding it was my duty to welcome everyone to the ceremony, give a short “homily” about the couple and marriage in general, go through the vows and exchange of rings and finally, officially, marry the couple and present them to the wedding guests.

After finally taking the time to sit down and write my “homily” and then having our run-through two days before the wedding, I was feeling much calmer about my duties. After all, the wedding ceremony was to be short and sweet and I was basically speaking in front of all of my best friends. Anxiety had become excitement.

Tim Peterson, the bride’s father, put it best during his speech at the reception: “If you’d told me years ago that Chris Jandro was going to marry my daughter and Nathaniel Liedl was going to be the minister I don’t think I would have believed you.”

Me neither.

The ceremony was intimate, laid back and beautiful. The reception was the most fun I’ve had all summer.

I attempted to post the video (which my dad filmed) on my blog but we’re having some difficulties. Here’s the script of my homily:

“In my introduction I mentioned that I’ve known Chris and Lauren as individuals for a long time. [Speaking directly to the bride and groom.] Chris, you’re one of my best friends and someone I confide in. Lauren, you’re the older sister I never had. And quite simply: Life has always been a bit more fun with either of you around.

“However, I haven’t known them as Chris and Lauren the couple for very long. I was in Vietnam when they first got together and I was still abroad when they became engaged. And much like some of you here today, I’ll admit, I wasn’t quite sure what to think of Chris and Lauren’s relationship at first.

“Chris is, of course, a few years younger than Lauren in age, but in most other ways he’s already an old man – from his gray hairs and back pain to his affinity for the finer things in life. Lauren, on the other hand, remains as free-spirited and carefree as the days when she babysat for my brothers and me. A couple months ago I had dinner with Chris and Lauren, and they both commented on how it’s their differences that make them perfect compliments to each other. Easygoing Lauren lowers Chris’s stress levels and Lauren has found a family man who always wanted to be a father. Chris once told me he hoped to someday have a “farm” of Jandros, so he’s getting a head start by adding Niko and Kavi into his family. Lauren has told me about how great Chris is with the kids – and Nico and Kavi seem to think “Daddie Dougie” is pretty great too. During that dinner, it took only about five minutes to see how in love Chris and Lauren are. And for everyone here today who’s spent any time at all with the couple, you have no doubt seen it too.

“Today as you join together in marriage, you enter a new phase in your lives of putting each other before yourselves. I know both of you to be incredibly compassionate, supportive and understanding individuals and partners to each other. Fortunately, you don’t have to go at it all alone. Take a look around…You both have amazing families as well as a support network of friends to help celebrate the good times but also to get you through the not so good times. And now that you are forever Chris and Lauren the couple rather than individuals, life is going to be more fun having the two of you around.”

The Petersons plus Dougie Jr.

Jandros

The Dudes: Seve, Wendle, Timmy, Dougie, Dougie Jr., Tim, Chet, Dan, Mark, Cp

Ceremony program

My parents and me

Chris and Mark

Nikki, Chet, Monica and Laura

Ellie Jandro

Toast to the new couple!

Happily ever after...

The Great Minnesota Get-together

This was my view for the last 12 days, 13 hours a day.

“How’s everybody doin’ at the MINNESOTA STATE FAAAAAAAAIIIIRRRRR!!!!????”

Positioned at the bar next to the band for every hour of the fair, I must of heard the bassist for Mojo Roots shout out this question some 240 times. That’s no exaggeration. We counted. One night there were 32. By the fair’s conclusion, I was convinced he knew we were counting and therefore continually tried to top his record from the prior night.

“How’s everybody doin’ at the MINNESOTA STATE FAAAAAAAAIIIIRRRRR!!!!????”

Three full days after the end of the Great Minnesota Get-together I am still filled with dreams of counting customers’ change, pouring beers and the songs the bands play every day. It was my fifth fair but first in four years (I worked from 2003-2006) because I was in California and then Vietnam. It was the most intense and exhausting fair, but also the most fun. After standing on my feet for 13 hours a day I’m still recovering.

Pouring beer constantly for 12 days you encounter some really kind people, some really shitty people and everything in between. You hear a lot of the same crap: people bitching about getting id-ed, people bitching about the prices, and people bitching that we don’t have Coors Light or Budweiser on tap (because out of the bottle obviously isn’t good enough). Particularly when you’re serving these wackos alcohol, you hear and see a lot of strange things. Like the guy who told me I looked like Patrick Swayze. Or the lady who refused to drink one beer I had poured just a minute earlier because she had been date-raped before. There was also the time Wendle guessed a girl’s name correctly before seeing her i.d. and I jokingly told some guy he looked like he was from Pine City — and then it turned out he really was.

On the fair’s final day we made our way to Machinery Hill where the parade passes so we could track down our favorite fair oddity: Melvin, the World’s only Wacky Wheeler. By this point years of tracking down Melvin has spawned a friendship between Mr. Big Wheel and Mr. Wendle, to the point that Melvin routinely lets Adam lie down in the street while the Wacky Wheeler rides over him. As soon as Melvin sees us (we were of course yelling and chanting his name), he stops his wheel and tells us to lie down in the street. Adam, Kris and I made a line much to the astonishment of everyone watching the parade. Then he rode his big wheel over us and my fair was complete. Mission accomplished! Only at the MINNESOTA STATE Faaaaaaaaiiiiiiirrrrrr!!!!!!!!

Melvin a.k.a. the Jolly Giant a.k.a. the World's Only Wacky Wheeler a.k.a. Mr. Big Wheel a.k.a. the man we stalk at the fair

Grandstand post-Kiss show, Sept. 4

Fair at night

French fry stand

There's a wide assortment of healthy offerings at the fair.

Some more healthy, nutrient filled offerings.

Funhouse

The Midway

Just another night of serving beer at Cafe Caribe.

2010 Cafe Caribe Staff

The Chesins plus Wendle

Kris holding down Bar 4

Miles dances as he does every night at Caribe...

Weirdos like this are a regular sighting.

Mojo Roots on the bandstand at the Minnesota State Faaaaaaiiiiiiiiir!

Art Institute of Chicago

Art Institute entrance on Michigan Avenue.

Sadly, I yet again have no time to post. Just three more fair days! Thus far it has been equally exhausting but fun. The people watching is as amazing as always, especially when you get to serve Minnesota’s finest and not-so-fine booze. Tomorrow Kiss plays at the Grandstand which should draw a raucous, intriguing crowd. Lots of fair stories are soon to follow, but tomorrow brings another 14 hour day.

Renoir

Below are pics I took at the Art Institute of Chicago. I had no idea how impressive the collection was when I entered. Like the world’s best museums, it would take one quite literally weeks to scour every room and piece and devote the amount of time the museum deserves. Of course, I only had a couple hours, so these are the highlights. Most definitely worth the $18 entry fee. Walking into a room and coming face-to-face with some of the legendary images the Institute houses is simply astounding.

Renoir, "Two Sisters"

Monet, "Grapes and Apples"

Just another Monet

WOW!

Sunday Afternoon on the Island of La Grande Jatte, part i

Sunday Afternoon on the Island of La Grande Jatte, part ii

Toulouse-Lautrec

Monet, water lilies, up close and personal

Van Gogh bedroom

Vincent

Gauguin

Edward Hopper, "Nighthawks"

Can't remember

"American Gothic"

Picasso

Picasso, "The Guitar Player"

Can't remember